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| Paints Question. | |
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| Topic Started: Mar 17 2010, 11:18 AM (814 Views) | |
| Roger | Mar 17 2010, 11:18 AM Post #1 |
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Hi Again  My God, I didnt realize there was so much to all this  If you guy's do'nt mind me asking I dare say this question has been asked a thousand times :wacko: Which paints do you use. I have a good understanding with regards to prep work but which paints do you guy's/gals use for different materials. I have just repainted a motorcycle for someone ( Suzuki GSXR Rizla Replica) and he has decided he wants a few personal touches. All the base coats have been applied and ready for clear coat. I was just wondering which paint would you use for doing these additions ie: water based, solvent based etc. They will mainly be lettering (names and a flag) any help would be very much appreciated. Kindest regards Roger. |
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| Guns | Mar 17 2010, 12:06 PM Post #2 |
Usque ad mortem Bibendum
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What type of paint was used for the basecoat Roger? I am thinking it is probably a commercial waterbased paint as only us custom blokes are allowed to play with solvents these days. If that's the case, you should be able to use either waterbased (E'tac, Auto Air, Auto Borne, Comart etc) or solvent based (HOK etc) Probably safes to go down the waterbased road as you won' have the solvent vapour issues you can get with solvents and clear coats, especially if it is lettering rather than Kandy fades and all that jazz. I am sure you will get more knowledgable responses though
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| Roger | Mar 17 2010, 12:44 PM Post #3 |
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Thanks Guns I did cheat a bit as i used cans for the base coats ( isosyanates) if thats how you spell it Lost my garage at the rear of my house ( it was CPO'd by local council) so i sold my compressor and guns a few months ago :wacko: Looking into getting better setup soon and would realy appreciate any advice with regards to the paints used for airbrushing. Finishing and affects of different paints etc. I have bought some books but they dont really cover what i'm looking for. Thanks again for all the advice. |
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| markralph | Mar 17 2010, 03:30 PM Post #4 |
 
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Hi Roger Airbrush paint is more down to personal choice rather than good and bad. I've only been airbrushing for about a year and tried Auto-Air (normal & Autoborne) Com-Art & Golden airbrush colours. I prefer the Auto-borne for detail and I like Auto-Air for larger areas (no adhesion problems here ;-)). I am a little unsure as to what exactly you've used on the bike 2Pack aerosol colour? or clear over base "Base coat" in a can, anyways I would agree with Guns on the use of a waterbased product for the airbrush work. If the base coats you have already applied are the type to require clear, I would be inclined to put a coat on before airbrushing. Regards Mark |
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| Mr Pid | Mar 17 2010, 06:22 PM Post #5 |
Misunderstood Genius!!
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I'd go with waterbased for the artwork - you'll have to key the whole base coat so the artwork sticks and then you can clear the whole lot once you are done. If you used HOK then you would have to adhere to their time windows - and there is always the risk of error as HOK does not play well with others. The waterbased AA and Etac are top stuff and dont react with anything. My new website will be up soon and you'll be able to see the full range of all three. Cheers, Stu |
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| Roger | Mar 17 2010, 06:26 PM Post #6 |
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Hi Mark/Guns, It is very much appreciated for your input. I have been reading so much lately its making me cross eyed :wacko: It is basically an Auto basecoat in a spray can. I had to opt for this until i get setup again. There just seems so many different paints with regards to airbrushing. I have been looking at all the products from; Autoair, createx,PPG Urethane HOK etc, the more i read the more confused i get For example, Transparent paints,Normal,Autoborne, White base,black base, Sh*t the list is endless :wacko: Just a basic idea of the paints and their uses would help a great deal ( if its not too much to ask) Sorry for giving you a headache  Kindest regards Roger. |
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| Hasey | Mar 17 2010, 07:59 PM Post #7 |
Silverfox
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Roger they're are pretty much all capable of the same uses which cover metal, fabrics, canvas, wood, plastic etc, they just have a different make up, some are waterbased, some are urethane. Waterbased are the most user friendly and safer, especially when using at home. I personally use Autoborne and wicked detail colours. Opaque are a solid colour that will cover with minimal coats. Transparent are a lot thinner and need plenty of coats to cover but work well for tinting and blending colours. White and dark base coats are exactly that, a light or dark base coat to build up from. |
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| Roger | Mar 18 2010, 09:15 AM Post #8 |
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Sorry for sounding thick guy's Guns,Mark,Stu ( Thanks) Its nice to know there won't be any reaction problems with the autoair products. I just could'nt see a water based paint sticking to any other material other than fabric or something porous :lol: Hasey, Would or could you not use more reducer with an opaque colour to give you a semi transparent paint or does'nt it work like that? many thanks roger. |
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| Guns | Mar 18 2010, 09:55 AM Post #9 |
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Usque ad mortem Bibendum
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Hi Roger, There are a lot of types of paint each with their own properties and merits. Waterbased are not as the name describes 100% based on water as it would take a long time to evaporate. What waterbased usually refers to is the fact that the main fluid is water but has vastly reduced levels of VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds i.e. solvents). Solvent based are exactly what it says on the tin  You can use waterbased on prety much any surface with the right prep work. Solvents take a little longer to master, I know I am still trying, but I find they spray finer and smoother than my efforts with waterbased so Persist in working with solvents. Do not use solvent on plastic unless you have a sample piece you can test on as they tend to eat plastics. Opaques have a higher pigment content and are effectively solid colour. You can use something like de-ionised water to "thin" them but you run the risk of losing the binding agent which hold the pigment in suspension. I use liquitex airbrush medium to "Thin" my waterbased paint for spraying through an airbrush but you should be careful not to over reduce. Transparents are as the name describes more see through than opaques and require more layers to build up the colour or fade effect you want to achieve. Again De-ionised water or liquitex can be used to thin transparents a little. Some waterbased paints are available as Kandies (but the only true kandies are solvent based). These tend to be a strong pigment that you mix with another fluid (usually a clear coat) as you don't need much kandy, just a few drops in most cases (relative to the volume of paint you are mixing of course) Pearlescents have very fine pearlising powder added to the paint and give that shimmering pearl effect. Metalics are similar to opaques but have very fine, coloured mica powder added to give that metalic effect Metal Flake is usually sold as a dry "powder" and can range from very, very fine to quite coarse in size. Don't try to spray flake through an airbrush unless you want to throw it away afterwards, it will clog and spit and generally get f*cked up. Then you get into the special effects type paints such as flip colours and chamelion paint that change colour either as a gradual fade (like on TVR cars) or as a fast switch depending on which direction you view the item from. Extra care is required with these paints as you need to spray them in the same aspect i.e. if you spray the doors of a car vertically, you need to do every other surface the same way or the grain of the paint will run in different directions and screw up the effect you wanted e.g. you get a red to gold chamelion and paint one door laying flay and another vertically, the way the paint lies will determine the effect and in that case you would end up with alternate cououred doors instead of the same transition. Interference or highlight paint is a clear carrier fluid with small amounts of very fine, coloured mica powder that are great for ghost effects i.e. you can't see them from one angle but as you move around the ghost effect is revealed (especially good for ghost flames on tanks and fenders) Choose a colour that compliments the base colour for the best effect or it is too in your face. I'm sure I have missed plenty but I'll let someone else fill in those gaps. Maybe we could put together an Organic Image Collective guide to paint for newbies, God knows we have enough experience between us  Anyway, I hope that answers a few questions mate. |
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| Roger | Mar 18 2010, 12:19 PM Post #10 |
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Guns, That has hit the nail on the head (thankyou) Sorry to babble on but you have mentioned using "Liquitex". Is this the same as 4011 reducer or is it just a prefered product? Thanks for being so helpful |
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