Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Welcome to Organic Image Airbrush and Art Messageboard. We hope you enjoy your visit.


You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.


Join our community!


If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Fine Detail Problems
Topic Started: Apr 25 2008, 02:05 PM (1,645 Views)
Unobtanium
Member Avatar
Trainee Novice
Member
Hi there,

I've been using Com-Art opaques and transparents and I just can't seem to get the detail I'm after. I've mainly been spraying onto sign board (plastic type) so I realise that the paint wont absorb into the surface as it does with paper.

I am using an Iwata HP-BH (with MAC valve) at about 20psi supply pressure.
I have an in-line moisture filter at the airbrush end and one fitted to the compressor. I find that if I turn the MAC valve down to where I think it should be there is not enough pressure to atomise the paint - but when I turn it up I get the even crappier result.

I have tried thinning the paint with distilled water (various amounts). I haven't tried the alcohol route yet (except for consumption :toast: ).
One theory I have is maybe I'm moving too slowly - there seem to be so many variables the chance of hitting the right one seems to be impossible.
I have also found that removing the nozzle cap seems to make things worse :wacko:

I am sure the nozzle is clean and I use super-lube.

There doesn't seem to be much left I can tell you.

I have a couple of examples of the poor spray patterns that I'm getting - Link - the fist picture shows the hair (really poor examples of dagger strokes) and the second picture shows the poor quality around the eyes.

I have been practising almost daily since Christmas so I feel I should be up to a better standard by now.

If anyone can give a few pointers (or even one) I would be very grateful.

Kev
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Guns
Member Avatar
Usque ad mortem Bibendum
Member
Sorry matey, I haven't used the com art paints yet, but I had a similar issue with auto air. I thinned it down and got nothing but spider legs everywhere.
In the end I turned the pressure on the compressor up to 40 and as I don't have a mac valve on my basic Iwata, I just set the max flow on the needle to a dribble which seemed to work for me.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Unobtanium
Member Avatar
Trainee Novice
Member
Thanks for the quick response Guns
I'll try upping the psi and see what I get - I hadn't thought of that I thought I needed low psi for detail.
You mentioned spiders legs - I would be happy with those - my lines have millipedes legs :hissyfit:
I'll go and try it now and post the response -soon

Thanks
Kev
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Unobtanium
Member Avatar
Trainee Novice
Member
Guns you are a :star: that has really helped.
My compressor struggles a bit at 40 psi but seems to be OK at 35 ish (thats the problem with the ebay knock-offs).

The only problem with this is that I found that using Com-Art at this pressure tip dry is almost instant. I can only spray for about 10 secs then I have to clean the tip after just a few mins I found I had to flush the airbrush the clear the nozzle.

I tried the same using Golden airbrush colours (carbon black compared to Com-Art opaque black) and it seems I can spray a bit longer before the tip dries.

At least I can achieve a decent fine line without the legs even if its only a short one.

Thanks again

Kev
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Moley
Member Avatar
Pungent Effulgent!
Moderators
Unobtanium
Apr 25 2008, 04:10 PM
I'll try upping the psi and see what I get - I hadn't thought of that I thought I needed low psi for detail.
Thanks
Kev

Hi Kev.........

Basically for detail you need to get nice & close to the surface so you do tend to require a lower pressure or the paint will just bounce off the surface (Spidering) but the medium you are spraying through your :micron: has to be thin enough.

Unfotunately the're so many variables it's a case of suck n see ;)

What little comart I have used, I managed to get nice fine lines so tinker about with the viscosity of the paint, the pressure you run at & the distance away from the surface.................Oh & watch those needle tips if you're spraying without your cap :P

Good luck M8e :moley:

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Unobtanium
Member Avatar
Trainee Novice
Member
Moley thanks for the advice/ response. :toast:

I think I have found the problem - I seem to have a small flat section on the tip/ side of my needle I can hardly see it but I can feel it. Maybe I need glasses (that would be good for a laugh :lol: ).

I've been struggling with this :micron: for over month now and wondering why everybody craves about Iwata, it seems to be no better than the original knock off I was bought for Christmas (my choice!).

I think I'll try and polish it out with some wet and dry paper and see what happens - if the worse comes to the worst then I'll have to buy a new needle (it wouldn't hurt to have a spare anyway I suppose).

By the way I have one more question - what use is the cut-out in the side of the handle - is it a cigarette holder - because if so it sucks - I keep burning myself. That's the only use I can find for it :unsure:
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Moley
Member Avatar
Pungent Effulgent!
Moderators
Unobtanium
Apr 25 2008, 06:05 PM
By the way I have one more question - what use is the cut-out in the side of the handle - is it a cigarette holder - because if so it sucks - I keep burning myself. That's the only use I can find for it :unsure:

Yep some people polish their needles as a matter of course, as to the cut out in the handle, you can use this to pull back on the needle to clear paint clogs etc. or can be used for certain special Efx........

Or holding your Ciggy :P
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mr Pid
Member Avatar
Misunderstood Genius!!
Creative VIP
The BH i think is the a fantastic brush and quite often overlooked by people.

You can get fantastic detail from Medea paint with this brush - you just have to play around with your paint viscosity until its flowing as you want.

I painted the portrait of Allen Iverson with a BH and some Cool Grey and detail i got was amazing, and also used it on the majority of the drum skin i painted this weekend.

Remember though it is a .02 nozzle and does not have the ultra effcient atomisation of the micron so you have to play with your paint accordingly.

Bloody brilliant brush though nonetheless!

Hope you get some results soon!

Stu :micron:
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Unobtanium
Member Avatar
Trainee Novice
Member
Thanks Mr Pid,
I'll experiment with the paint and see what happens - once I get the new needle I seem to have lost he profile of my one whilst trying to remove the flat.
I'll get results eventually :lol:
Kev
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Artspray
Member Avatar

Premium Member
isopropyle alcohol works very well as doese gylcerine in small amounts i put say 20 drops in either water or water alcohol mix etac conditionair is recomended for most acrylics and coincidently containes gycerine and would be used at about the same concentrations

what i find is that adding liquitex airbrush mediuim to most any paints improves flow tremendously but will increase transparancy

Paul
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Medea Textile Colours & Com Art info · Next Topic »
Add Reply