2 Pack Clear

[Artspray]

ref metalflake candy,yes it may only be available in quarts but as i recale its only about £25 for quart which is way way cheaper then HOK ,its would cost you that for 8oz of HOK KK

[Mr Pid]

I recently did a test fire panel with AA, one side was autoborne and the other was normal AA. When cleared the Auto Borne was flat and the normal AA was bitty as hell.

I recently produced the best looking red fire so far with the three primary colours - Cyan, Magenta and Yellow, which makes perfect sense in theory.

HOK Candies are not the answer to fire problems although work well once you get the hang of it. But then again so do Opaques and Transparents if you put the same time into practicing them.

8oz of HOK Candy is about £25 - but as its mixed 5:1 that will last you a decade. You can now get it in 2oz bottles which you can mix in SG100 so works out pretty cheap if you use alot of it.

Clear wise the HOK has to stay within itself. If you use UC35 with KU100 as directed, with a flow coat you can get a finish out the gun which is like glass and solid as a rock in a couple of hours. You have to bake it properly though - otherwise it will re-flow.

[x4muscle]

hi, metalflake candy was £30 with vat in my last price list 4 years ago, i'm thinking the little KK concentrate tins because i would only be using tiny amounts [at £6.98 a tin]. i'm using an Iwata eclipse CS and trying to do detailed work with AA get water splatter,trying to modify my technique,am doing better with autoborne and etac, but don't ever remember my old candys being that hard to use [mind you it was about 30 years ago]. will try and post a couple of pictures of latest attempts. phil.

ps...maybe need finer nozzle .02 for stuff i'm attempting [pin-ups] ?

This post has been edited by x4muscle on Feb 2 2010, 01:24 PM

[x4muscle]

crikey ,eventually got pics downloaded, changed image host etc, taken an hour or so to work out how , still done now, is on members gallery...phil.

[Artspray]

virtualy all the AA i have is the latest W batch but that last helmet i did was with P batch and it came out realy smooth ,i laid it on with a colani 0.4 ,after the first few coats i then sanded it smooth and layed the last coats which went on great ,in fact if was tough enough it would have made a nice flat finish without clearing

Stu giveing it a quick rub with abralon 1000 works wonders if its started to go grainy on you ,i do it over artwork and true fire and unless its pearl it doesnt destroy your work but just gets rid of the grainy stuff ,i also find a tack rag every now and again helps ,the trick as i find it is to deal with it as it ocures layer by layer rather than trying to deal with it after several layers when its realy effected the way the paint is laying

i have sanded over completed AA panels with abralon 1000 and it doesnt show the sanding marks ,i rub very lightly almost as if im useing a tack rag ,also abralon is avialable in 2000 and i believe 4000 ,i much prefer it to scotch and i use on a DA to do blends where most folk use grey scotch which can show

as for the AA true fire i have yet to find one of thier yellows thats works as well as my Hogarth yellow pigmented concentrates so i tend to avoid any other brands of yellow

as to the metalflake candies ,more often than not i would be doing a complete bike so if its a popular colour such as apple red then i would opt for a quart of metalflake concentrate at £30 ish over a 8oz of HOK for £25 ,however if all you are doing is airbrush work then it isnt going to be viable to buy in all your colours in those amounts and the little 2oz bottles would be the better option

in fact with my local HOK suplier it works out cheaper to buy four 2oz bottles than one 8oz by a couple of quid which is a strange situation ,i think they priced them wrong





Paul

This post has been edited by Artspray on Feb 2 2010, 05:24 PM