2 Pack Clear

Hi all, Been using AA then 2 pack clear [i'm in the UK],but want to go back to solvent paint for artwork ,used metalflake company products many years ago, luvved it, AA is a real struggle. i'm assuming i can use SG100 over AA, but what about the 2 pack clear over that...........i'm under the impression that HOK clear [urethane] is'nt the same as 2 pack clear sold here. [acrylic ?] cheers......phil.

I use SG100 to seal , then it's cleared with 2-pack....no problems ....but remember the sg100 can be reactivated very easily and I've got into a mess when I've put the first coat of the 2pack on too heavy

hi sam, cheers for the heads-up, reactivating the sg100 had'nt even occurred to me.. phil.

HOK do an acrylic clear so you can stay with thier system,also Metalflake is still readily available in the UK thier candy concentrates are much cheaper than most others ,the only problem is they cant supply the thinners for some of thier products as they cant import them due to regulations ,its also a non catylised single pack system



Paul

PS why would you want to use SG100 over AA ??

This post has been edited by Artspray on Jan 29 2010, 04:35 PM

I use SG100 over AA Autoborne so I don't run the risk of scratching the artwork and I can mask on top without too much of a fear of the paint coming off. A substitute for SG100 is the base they use to make basecoat colours....cheaper .
What would you use Paul to protect water based acrylics ?

its rare i use any sort of intercoat but like you can substitute any control binder for SG100 then the same aplies with waterbased ie i sometimes use liquitex as an intercoat
mainly i would 2K clear it then do the remaining work,that last helmet i did i masked directly over the AA mango with 2" tape ,no problems whatsoever and i cover the mango in tape although as precuation i did do the old jeans trick with the tape to detack it slightly ,i have actualy deliberatly burnished tape down with my thumbnail over autoborne without a hitch
Paul

This post has been edited by Artspray on Jan 31 2010, 11:01 PM

Well I've just managed to remove some autoborne from my Regiment bike tank ....just by gently wiping it with my finger!!!..Luckily it's on an area of the busby hat that I can respray easily....that's why I like to seal my artwork

HOK recommend that you keep within thier system wherever possible - the only people who ever seem to have probs with it are those that substitute products such as hardener for cheaper versions.

They do particularly state to only use SG100 when using their Urethane clear over the top.

If you use a heavy duty primer sealer such as Ko-Seal then waterbased paints have a problem sticking to this as it rely's on a chemical bond rather than a mechanic bond. This also has a shorter window for clear coat times.

hi artspray, the AA sprays very grainy,the idea behind sg100 is to give a smooth coat before artwork.[ala craig fraser]struggling with realfire using AA ,fancied trying HOK,cos of small tins, metalflake comp are quite near me but now only do candy in quarts,used to get small tins.as for HOK 2 pack,it sounds very fussy and with very strict recoat times and is more costly. i'm only getting back into this as a hobby and doing new paint job on my motorbike every winter. cheers, phil.

theres a bit of nack to get AA to lay smooth ,im useing the latest W batch which is giveing me good results ,i dont have problems with stuff thinned out for artwork but if i do get a bit of grainy finish i just sand over with 1000 abralon then if its a pearl i give it another coat

Sam i have never had a problem with autoborne wipeing off in fact i find it sticks like sh#t to blanket even when highly reduced ,to the point i have have to sand it off as i couldnt remove it with water ,im spraying over P600 generaly but i have and do use finer grades
i have some HOK UC35 but im still undecided about the stuff ,i found it slow to harden and even after weeks i can mark it easily ,this is directly over AA ,which was heat set and been left for a few weeks prior to clearing so was fully set ,it has aslo started to sink back slightly and dull off a touch .so no better than average to me in that respect

im used to acrylic 2K and these urethanes seem very slow to cure in comparison

i am actualy looking towards these new ceramic clears for bikes, helmets and such ,i think they would also be ideal for guitars and such



Paul